Mk5 Golf R32 Silicone Coolant Hoses Info and Review

Wile doing a recent oil change, I discovered that the original rubber coolant hoses had started to bubble. This meant that the car was getting parked until I could replace the hoses because I knew they were ticking time bombs. These bubbles were more than likely caused by oil within the coolant lines, which I know was caused by a failed DSG cooler last year. Even though I did a very thorough flush, the damage had already been done and not all of the oil was evacuated.

Once I looked up the prices for the OEM replacement hoses, it was an easy decision to purchase silicone hoses. The OEM hoses were well over $500 at my wholesale cost…hell no. Now, for silicone, there are two companies that offer a kit for the Mk5 R32: Forge Motorsport and Addiction Motorsport. Both companies are located in the UK (Forge has a US location) and both offer the kits in three different colors. However, Forge’s kit is meant specifically for a manual transmission R32 (Europe only option) but AM’s kit is for a DSG R32. Seems like a simple solution, right?

Wrong. Addiction Motorsport was out of stock of their black kit, which is the color I wanted, and through speaking with them via email (very quickly I will add), I was told that it would end up being about 3-4 weeks before they had it back in stock. With Wookies in the Woods fast approaching (4 weeks from when I contacted them), they were no longer an option for me, which is unfortunate because I really do like the look of their kit and the fact that is meant for a DSG car. Instead, I ordered a black Forge kit, knowing that it came with no instructions, additional data, and that modification would be necessary to work with a DSG car.

The kit showed up quickly and did include nice hose clamps. I had called Forge Motorsport US when I ordered them to see if they knew what else was needed in addition to the kit and was flat out told no and that they don’t know. I mocked up all the hoses to start figuring this out since there aren’t any documented DIY or informational posts that I could find. This leads us to what you are reading now. Because Forge doesn’t tell you what is what, I am here to help you save time.

Each hose has a three digit stamp on it (I really hope they all do and that they are all the same) and I made a spreadsheet showing each hose and it’s corresponding OEM part number, location, and which hoses are missing from the kit.

 
 

Now, I am not going to do a full actual DIY because, well, it is a lot and not a small task. What I will say is that you will need to put the radiator support into the service position at a minimum in order to get two hoses (one from the oil cooler to the block and one from the aux water pump to the block). In addition, you will need remove the thermostat housing and water pipe (aka the crack pipe) in order to get to those same hoses. Everything else can be accessed with just the intake out of the way. You will notice that there are four lines that say “needs to be cut” and it is not that intimidating so long as you have a sharp knife. You simply need to lay the hose next to it’s corresponding OEM hose and mark where the breaks need to happen. Also, don’t forget to transfer any heat shield, bumper, or sleeves from the OEM hoses to the new hoses: they’re there for a reason.

I will also mention that the longer oil cooler hose (goes to the block) is not the same shape as the OEM hose but can work, once the larger end is trimmed. I would have to look up why this is…possibly the manual R32 has a different cooler if I had to guess. I was also told by three people that they were able to modify one of the Forge hoses to work with the DSG cooler but no matter what configuration I tried, I could not figure this out. This is why I have the OEM hoses for that listed, as well as a new heater hose (really weird that it wasn’t replaced with the Forge kit), and one smaller hose on the lower radiator line that connects the DSG cooler to the system.

For me, since everything was open and there was still residual oil in the system, a full flush using Volkswagen’s Clean Sol (G-052-188-A3) will be done. I used this last year and I will say that it does a really good job. It is tedious to do a full flush but I don’t want to do any of this again for a long time.

Time to talk turkey: the Forge kit costs $400 (sales, free shipping, and hose clamps are available depending on where you order from) and the four missing hoses will cost $145.27 MSRP from a dealer. The Addiction Motorsport kit is listed on their site 315.99 £ ($458.44) but that does include their VAT for UK buyers. In talking with them via email, they will remove the VAT for US buyers with proof of residence. This makes their kit 263 £ ($381.56) plus shipping (25 £ or $36.27) and this means (in theory) you will not need to buy the extra OEM hoses, although I cannot verify this because I do not have their kit in front of me. Perhaps I will buy their kit just for a comparison, though I will not install after I have already gone through all this trouble.

If time wasn’t an issue, I would have waited for the black Addiction Motorsport kit to get back in stock (yes, even if the prices were identical). I also do not know if they provide clamps and any further information or instructions with their kit but I think it is worth the savings in price and hassle of having to modify. I hope this helps and if you need any more information, don’t hesitate to ask.

UPDATE!

Once the Addiction Motorsport hoses in black were available, I did order them, for science. Man, I really wish these would have been available when I was doing the job but now I know for the future and so will all of you.

I see no physical issues with the kit and they also come with no instructions or information as to what is what. One major downside to this kit is there are no identifying marks like the Forge kit so there is no way for me to list what is what like I did with them. What I can do is get as close as I can to comparing them:

As you can see from the chart, I am clueless as to the locations of three hoses (24, 25, and 28) and honestly, I am not taking my car apart to figure that out. If you purchase this kit and figure it out, please let me know. I also could be wrong but I do not see a hose to replace one of the two heater core hoses, which the Forge kit also does not provide.

I hope this helps and I do have the hoses listed for sale (click HERE for the listing) for someone that needs the kit in the States. I am losing a little money in the name of documenting as much as possible for the Mk5 R32 coolant hose replacements.

Mk7 Golf Sportwagen / Alltrack Towing Guide

Since owning my first 2017 Alltrack, I have seen a new towing capacity or general towing post weekly, sometimes almost daily, so I decided to put everything towing related in one post to make it easier to find.

No towing at all is RECOMMENDED for any Golf Variant (Sportwagen and Alltrack) in the United States (I imagine Canada might be similar since that falls under the North American Region). That is the official stance from Volkswagen. One common rumor that gets passed around is that if you tow, you will void your warranty. Your warranty won’t be voided if you tow, however, if you tow and let’s say your clutch goes bad because you decided to tow 3 tons of bricks, then it’s likely that repair will not be covered by your warranty.

Now, we all know that the same vehicles exist in the United Kingdom and Europe and over there they are rated for towing. It is important to note that since towing is common place over there, the vehicles are able to be equipped with an OEM trailer module which allows for improved stability and cooling when towing. Also, most tow with trailer brakes. Here is a breakdown of what their ratings are:

  • 1.8T Sportwagen: 1,500 kg / 3,307 lbs braked (750 kg / 1,653 lbs un-braked)

  • 1.4T Sportwagen: 1,500 kg / 3,307 lbs braked (670 kg / 1,477 lbs un-braked)

  • 2.0 TDI Sportwagen: 1,600 kg / 3,527 lbs braked (710 kg / 1,565 lbs un-braked)

  • 1.8T Alltrack: 1,500 kg / 3,307 lbs braked (750 kg / 1,653 lbs un-braked)

  • 2.0 TDI Alltrack: 2,000 kg / 4,409 lbs braked (750 kg / 1,653 lbs un-braked)

It is important to remember that these numbers are for braked trailers and the hitches are not 1.25” hitches. Also these numbers are the same for manual and automatic (DSG) transmissions. Since most people I know that tow with their Golf Variants don’t have trailer brakes (myself included), here is a very safe rule of thumb: regardless if you use a 2” or a 1.25” hitch, do not exceed 91 kg / 200 lbs tongue weight and do not exceed 907 kg / 2,000 lbs total weight. That is the rating of Class 1 hitches (that is what is mostly available for our cars). Let’s move on to options for hitches.

  • Curt: 114223 Class 1, 1.25” - this part number includes the receiver and ball mount

  • Curt: 11422 Class 1, 1.25” - this part number is just the receiver, no ball mount

  • Draw-Tite: 24949 Class 1, 1.25”

  • EcoHitch: XV1VWGOLF02 Class 1 Hidden, 1.25” or 2”

  • Westfalia: 321782, 50mm ball and rated for 80 kg / 176 lb tongue and 2,000 kg / 4,409 lb towing

As for trailer wiring, there are two manufacturers with piggy-back options that I know of, and all work specifically on the NAR (North American Region) lighting behaviors of the brake and turn signals operating at the same time.

  • 2015-2017 with halogen tail lamps: Curt C56391

  • 2015-2017 with halogen tail lamps: Tekonsha 118730

  • 2018+ with LED tail lamps: Curt C59236 - doesn’t appear to have plug and play adapter

  • 2018+ with LED tail lamps: Tekonsha 118730

  • If you have European tail lamps or coded your NAR tail lamps to function as European, you’ll need to splice in Curt 56496 in order to have full trailer functions.

  • If you are interested in retrofitting an OEM trailer module to your vehicle, there is information here: http://bit.ly/mk7trailermodulediy

I really think that covers all the important aspects of towing with a Mk7 Golf Variant. I can update this post if new information arrives. Please be safe when towing, braking early and down shifting to use engine braking, and take care of your gear. To check on what your state requires when towing, visit this site for a break down: https://trailers.com/state-laws

Mk7 Golf Sportwagen/Alltrack Towing Module (J345) Retrofit

There are a lot of Mk7 Golf Variant owners that own a trailer of some sort and tow it frequently. I am one of these owners, having a fishing boat and a utility trailer, and like many, I had ordered a piggy back style harness to provide power to the trailer lights. Many people run harnesses like this on a plethora of vehicles but is it the best way to tow?

When I learned that Volkswagen offers a trailer module for almost every model in the European market, I wanted to learn more. What really sparked my interest was finding out that there is a retro fit kit available from US dealerships for the MQB Tiguan. I knew that many MQB chassis vehicles share a lot of components, to include electronics. I spent a lot of time cross referencing OEM wiring diagrams, part numbers, and cataloging the parts needed to make this happen and have successfully done this to my 2018 Alltrack S. First, let’s talk about why this is a better way to connect your tailer to your vehicle.

Lights (S, SE, SEL)

The most obvious part to this module is that it provides power to the trailer lights. There are three benefits to this module though: no piggy back harness, bulb status, and coding.

  • No piggy back harness means that the tail lamps stay plugged in directly to the body harness.

  • Bulb status is a neat feature that we may all be aware of with the vehicle as it is from the factory. If a bulb stops working on your vehicle, a warning is displayed on your information screen to tell you which one is out. Well this feature is now extended to your trailer. If your passenger turn signal on your tailer is not working, your vehicle’s information screen will tell you that it is out.

  • Coding is something that will effect anyone that has coded their tail lamps to operate as the European tail lamps do (brake and turn signal are independent from each other). When using the piggy back harness and this coding is performed, you need to run another wire and a converter to make the trailer work correctly. With the OEM module, any lighting coding done to the vehicle is carried over to the trailer without extra wiring.

ABS (S, SE, SEL)

This is the area that I cared most about. As soon as the trailer harness is plugged into the vehicle, the car recognizes that a trailer is now connected and that the vehicle should respond differently than if no trailer was present. The firmness of the brake pedal and the stability control are changed to reflect the trailer. If you have to make an emergency maneuver with the trailer on, the ABS (which controls many things on the vehicle) will make corrections for the fact that a trailer is attached. With the piggy back harness, the car just thinks that there is a lot of cargo in the car, which anyone that has had to make an emergency maneuver with a trailer knows that it is so much different than with no trailer. This is a pretty big safety feature.

Park Sensors (SE, SEL)

If your vehicle has the Driver Assistance Package and have park sensors on your bumpers, this feature will make you happy. Those sensors will sound off when you are approaching an object and obviously, the trailer stays close all the time. When plugged in, the module disables the rear sensors. You also get some extra features on the infotainment screen specific to the trailer that those without the package do not get.

Alarm (S, SE, SEL)

This is only available for vehicles with the advanced alarm installed and enabled. Most do not have this but if you do or choose to retro fit it, this will allow the vehicle alarm to sound if the trailer is disconnected and the car is locked. Great feature to scare away those trailer thieves.

Cooling (S, SE, SEL)

Another important feature is engine and transmission cooling. When towing, higher stress is placed on the powertrain and when the trailer is plugged in, the module tells the cooling system to run longer to prevent overheating. This applies to the engine fans, thermostat, and transmission.

There may be more features but these are the core ones that are the most important. I was originally going to make this a kit that I assembled but as you will see, it isn’t entirely plug and play and I decided to just make is a DIY instead.

Parts Needed

  • 4F0-937-731 (Male connector for T6bc, B), $6.20 - 1 needed

    • A-018-545-47-26 [T6bc pin (large)], $2.64 - 2 needed

    • A-013-545-78-26 [T6bc pin (small)], $11.85 - 1 needed

  • 6R0-972-930 (Male connector for T10p, C), $20.67 - 1 needed

    • N-907-647-01 (T10p pin), $1.04 - 3 needed

  • 5NN-055-203 (Trailer hitch electrical kit), $230.39 - 1 needed

  • 5G9-971-502-A (Retainer for module), $2.41 - 1 needed

  • 1C0-973-119-B (Male connector for CAN), $7.08 - 1 needed

    • N-907-647-01 (Female pin for CAN), $1.04 - 3 needed

  • 3D0-973-332 (Female connector for CAN), $17.17 - 1 needed

    • 61-13-1-383-672 (Male pin for CAN), $1.65 - 3 needed

  • N-907-327-03 (Large pin for fuse panel), $1.34 - 2 needed

When dealing with wires, I tend to purchase the terminal pins and then crimp them onto the lengths of wires as needed. I do this because the finished product ends up looking much nicer and it is much cheaper to do. However, I recognize that not everyone has the tools that I do so I will give you an alternative to crimping terminal pins:

  • A-018-545-47-26 [T6bc pin (large)] is the pin that is on VW repair wire 000-979-152-E ($26.60). Since you need two pins, just order one wire and cut it in half.

  • A-013-545-78-26 [T6bc pin (small)] is the pin that is on VW repair wire 000-979-151-E ($25.20).

  • N-907-647-01 (T10p pin) is the pin that is on VW repair wire 000-979-009-E ($13.14).

  • N-907-647-01 (Female pin for CAN) is also the pin that is on VW repair wire 000-979-009-E ($13.14).

  • 61-13-1-383-672 (Male pin for CAN) is the pin that is on VW repair wire 000-979-012-E ($18.02).

  • N-907-327-03 (Large pin for fuse panel) is the pin that is on VW repair wire 000-979-227-E ($25.20).

In addition to all of this, you will need spools of wire. You can use all one color or multi colored, which I use and recommend this: https://amzn.to/2LhqlYO

J345 Diagram-1.png


Looking at the schematic is important to understanding what is going on with the wiring. Since I do not have step by step photos of the process, this explanation will be the best way to understand what needs to be done. The trailer module has four connector banks, A, B, C, and D.

  • Bank A is a 24 pin connector that goes out to the trailer. Five of these pins are used for a traditional 4 pin trailer connector: pins 7 and 10 and jumped together, 15 is parking and brake, 18 is passenger turn signal, and 24 is driver turn signal.

  • Bank B is a 6 pin connector that is the main power connector for the module. Only three pins are used: pin 2 goes to ground, 3 goes to fuse panel location 38, and 4 goes to fuse panel location 28. Both are 15 amp fuses.

  • Bank C is a 10 pin connector that connects the module to the vehicle’s CAN gateway, or vehicle network. Only three pins are used and all three go to the BCM behind the driver side of the dash. The BCM has two large connectors that are needed for this, the one labeled A and the other is C. Pin 2 is the only one that goes to the C connector and that is for the brake switch signal. Pin 3 goes to location 16 of the A connector and 4 goes to location 17 of the A connector. Now what took me a little figure out is you have two options here. One is to just splice the new wire into the factory wires that go into those positions. I don’t like messing with factory wires so I went with the way that is shown. The three brand new wires that you are running from the hatch (where the module is located) will have two ends. Three of these end will have a male pin and three will have a female pin. The three male ends will go into the small 3 pin female connector that you purchase (3D0-973-332). The three female ends replace the factory wires in the BCM connectors. The three female factory wires then are plugged into the small 3 pin male connector that you purchase (1C0-973-119-B). All of this allows for one nice CAN Gateway loop without cutting or splicing the factory wires once the two small 3 pin connectors are plugged into each other.

  • Bank D is left empty at this time. This is used specifically for the OEM European swiveling hitch and the switch that goes with it. I have these pins written out but if you are looking to wire this up specifically, not only can I order you those parts, just contact me and I can provide you the wiring as well.

Personally I feel that everything else is pretty easy to figure out. The module and its retainer bracket is connected under the tray where the OEM tool kit is located on the driver side of the hatch. I believe it is one bolt that holds that tray in place and then the retainer is snapped into that tray and the module snaps into the retainer. You will need to lift the hatch carpet in order to route the trailer wires. You remove one of the round rubber grommets and the nice part is the OEM module kit wiring has a grommet built in to replace the blank one. Now, you will need to loosen up the tape on the built in grommet to be able to shift the position. The kit is designed for a Tiguan and it is close, but not close enough.

The wires that go to the front of the vehicle get snaked up through the driver side channel with the rest of the wiring. If you don’t have a nice snake tool to run the wires, you can grab THIS ONE from Amazon. You will need to take out the dash cubby and the trim pieces around the hood latch lever in order to get to the BCM. The BCM plugs are probably the hardest part of the job, next to plugging the fuse panel wires into the back of the fuse panel. I really don’t have many suggestions to making it easier but take your time. The fuse panel wires do just push into the back of the panel so make sure they are going into the correct positions. Another way you could add the fuses to the panel can be found in “A way to add fused circuits to your fuse panel” on VWVortex.

You will have to figure out your own method for mounting the trailer wiring. I had some flat aluminum and threaded rivets that I fabricated onto the bumper.

Coding

For this, I used VCDS to do my coding but I am sure you can use any other program to do this. Also, I only have coding for my vehicle, which is an S model with no packages. There may be additional coding for the park sensors.

  • Select: 19 - CAN Gateway

    • Select: Installation List

      • Scroll and check the box for: 69 - Trailer

      • Select: Save coding

    • Close Controller, Go Back - 06

  • Select: 03 - ABS Brakes

    • Select: Adaptation - 10

      • In the first drop down menu, select: Vehicle and trailer stabilization

      • Change the value to Activated and select Do It!

      • Select: Go Back

    • Close Controller, Go Back - 06

  • Select: 01 - Engine

    • Select: Coding - 07

      • Toggle to Byte 5 and make sure Bit 4 is checked

      • Do It!

    • Close Controller, Go Back - 06

Now, I will share with you all of the coding Bytes/Bits I have on my module:

  • Select: 69 - Trailer

    • Select: Coding - 07

      • Byte 0, Bit 0-7: 02 Market/Country: North American Region (NAR)

      • Byte 1, Bit 4-7: 10 Partial Network Operation active

      • Byte 3, Bit 0-7: 00 Terminal 30 Output (Pin 9) NOT active)

      • Byte 4, Bit 0-7: 02 Terminal 30 Output switched (Pin 10) active while Trailer connected

  • Select: 09 - Cent. Elect.

    • Select: Security Access - 16

      • Enter: 31347

    • Select: Adaptation - 10

      • Search for Networking-Anhaengeranschlussgeraet

      • Change the value to Installed

      • Do It!

And that is it! I think. I know it isn’t an absolute complete guide to the job but it isn’t a job for the faint at heart either with or without guidance. Feel free to comment on here or email me about this if you have any other comments or questions about this.

Mk7 Speedometer Correction

I know I normally publish on Tuesdays and Thursdays but this is fresh in my head so here we go!

Since putting on the Nokian Rotiivas, my speedometer has been off about 8% from my actual speed due to them being larger than OEM. This may seem like a no brainer to just go slower. True, that is an option but not something I want to calculate while driving. I found some useful information today and put it to the test and was pleasantly surprised with the results. Simply, you have to change the coding of the Instruments and I did this with VCDS. Before I get to the coding, you need to understand the sizing and impulses being read.

When the wheels spin, the ABS sensors measure the rotations and send an impulse to the computer via witchcraft/magic. The computer is programmed to take those impulses and convert them to the speedometer with a set formula that is set with coding.

The 215/65R16 tires that I am running break down to this: a diameter of 27" (685.8 mm) and a circumference of 84.84" (2,154.936 mm). There are 43 impulses per revolution and the math I found in order to figure out the revolutions per kilometer, is 1,000,000/circumference (in millimeters). So with this tire, there are 464.05 revolutions per kilometer and 19,954.15 impulses per kilometer. With all of that known, this chart I found was very helpful:

The file was a read only document so I couldn't change the numbers up top but the formulas were there and the important information is on the bottom. Of the numbers shown the one column closest to my numbers were column 4, and when I coded the car to that, my speedometer was where it needed to be. Now to the coding; it is simple.

Using VCDS, access the Instruments group 17.

Select Coding and then Long Coding Helper. Once in, toggle over to Byte 3 (the fourth little box with numbers in it). You should see the screen above. The drop down menu from the factory should have 05 Tire Circumference: Variant 6 selected. Click on the drop down menu and select 03 Tire Circumference: Variant 4.

Close the window and select the Do It! button. That's it!

Please, take notice of your stock settings so that if it doesn't work you can revert back. This worked for me and I am really happy to have a normal speedometer/actual speed.

Mk7 Golf Sportwagen / Alltrack Interior Hatch Button

I hesitate to call myself an inventor but one thing I find myself doing often is trying to figure out a simple solution to problems I encounter. One such problem has been with the rear hatch of the Alltrack (also applies to the Mk7 Golf and Sportwagen). First, I coded the hatch to open when the hatch button on the key fob is pressed and then I installed the ECS Tuning hatch pop kit, which is simply a pair of beefier hatch struts and hardware that allow the hatch to lift on its own once the latch is opened (hence the coding).

We go lots of places together as a family and the wagon is usually the family car and there are many times that my wife will run into a store and I will stay in the car with the kids. When she comes out, she will have her hands full with groceries or other things and what I have had to do, rather than get out of the car and open the hatch for her, is remove the key from the ignition, hold it out of the window, and press the hatch button. Kind of annoying but it does get the job done. I know that you can code the car to allow the key fob to be active while the car is running but that wasn't what I wanted. I wanted a physical button like the Mk5s have (even the R32 has it).

I found a button that I really liked and it is actually from an early 2000s Chevrolet Impala and Monte Carlo. It is available on Amazon and it is an AC Delco made part and if you can find it elsewhere with the pigtail, that would make the wiring a little nicer. I did not know prior to buying it that GM doesn't do connectors like Volkswagen does. If your switch needs a new connector, you have to either buy a brand new harness (in this case, the whole dash harness is over $600) or go to a junk yard and find it.

Let's get to the DIY. As always, you modify your car at your own risk. I am not responsible for your screw ups. Here is the schematic of the switch: 

In short, you are tying the factory hatch release wire to the new switch. The switch is non polar so it does not matter which pin is positive or ground. I do not like modifying factory wires so I do my best to make something plug and play to allow for a simple reverse back to stock if needed.

 Parts needed:

 - Switch 

- x1 Female connector: 8W0-972-575

- x1 Male connector: 8W0-971-832

- x1 Female repair wire: 000-979-009-E

- x2 Female terminal pin (alternative): N-907-647-01

- x1 Male repair wire: 000-979-012-E

- x2 Male terminal pin (alternative): 61-13-1-383-672 (BMW)

- x2 Female spade (7/64" or 2.8mm): you can pick these up at almost any auto parts store

- x1 butt connector (22-16 AWG)

- OEM cloth tape: 000-979-950

I like to give the alternative terminal pins because it is way cheaper to buy the pins and bulk wire and make everything to the length you want with the proper crimp tool. In this case, I had one of the male and female repair wires in my stash so I just used that and a heat shrink butt connector.

Tools needed:

- T20 screwdriver (or driver bit in a ratchet)

- small flat head screw driver or trim tool

- terminal removal tool (in this case, a small safety pin or paperclip will also work)

- wire cutter/stripper tool

- crimp tool

I did not take many step by step photos of the entire process because I was working fast and it is pretty simple. If you have any questions, just ask and I will help.

- Step 1: remove the cover at the end of the dash that reveals the fuse panel. Also remove the thin vertical trim that is next to it along the door jamb.

- Step 2: remove the dash cubby underneath the light switch. You do this by opening it and squeezing the outer sides inward.

- Step 3: remove the one T20 screw that is next to the OBDII connector and the plastic cover that it holds.

- Step 4: remove the hood release handle and trim. There are many instructions to this online and the process has not changed since 2006. You will have to first pop the hood and then you can access the handle's retaining clip with a flathead or trim removal tool. You then pull the handle off and remove the small round cover off the head of the trim screw. Then remove the flathead screw. The trim will then come off once you pull up on the door sill trim.

-Step 5: There are three plugs that connect to the BCM (body control module) and they are labeled A, B, and C. They used to be different colors but aren't anymore. For this task, you will need plug A, which will be the closest to the firewall. There is a tab that has to be pushed in before folding the handle down. You may have to unplug the others in order to gain access to this plug or even to be able to pull A all the way out.

- Step 6: Now you will have to remove the main sheath in order to access the individual wires. Carefully snip the small zip tie that is holding the wire loom to the sheath. There are two small tabs that need to be carefully pressed outwards in order for the two smaller connectors to slide out.

Step 7: Both smaller connectors are numbered. You will want to locate pin 32. The connector has number 33 on it, so obviously, 32 is the one next to it. In my case, it was a white wire. You will need to use your terminal pin tool (or safety pin or paper clip) to press the release on the wire and remove the wire. You may need a small pair of needle nose pliers to help pull the wire out, CAREFULLY. Then, insert the female repair wire into pin 32 and make sure it clicks into place. Also make sure the factory wire that you removed is out of the way and easily accessible once the harness is back together.

- Step 8: Insert the two connectors back into the sheath. You don't have to replace the zip tie but you can if you want to. You will now take the factory white wire that you removed from pin 32 and insert it into new male connector (8W0-971-832). It does not matter which position it goes into. Insert the female repair wire into the other position and close the connector. You can plug the entire connector back into the BCM at this point.

- Step 9: Now you take the new female connector (8W0-972-575) and insert both ends of the male repair wire into it. Snip the repair wire in half and strip the ends and twist together. They are both going to the same position on the switch so I used a butt connector to join them to a single wire.

- Step 10: I chose to run the switch inside the dash cubby so not a lot wire is needed but where you choose to put the switch, measure out your wire accordingly. If you are fortunate and have the OEM pigtail to this switch, just connect your wire to either of the leads. I used a 2.8mm female spades to connect to the switch. The other position will be a ground. I removed the 13mm dash bolt in the fuse area and grounded it there.

- Step 11: This step is personal preference. I cut out a square in the dash cubby and fit the switch there. There is enough room for the switch when the cubby is closed.

- Step 12: Reassemble everything and coding via VCDS

  • 09-Cent. Elect.

  • Security Access

    • 31347

    • Do It!

  • Adaptation

    • Channel

      • 12)-Access control-Direkter Auswurf des Heckdeckels

      • Active

      • Do It!

And that is it. I can now be lazy and not get out of the car to help my wife.